Definitions
Aniline: Dyes and finishes that contain no pigment. When used on leather they provide a rich, clear stain that allows the natural character of the article to be seen.
Cementable: Refers to leather(s) that can be glued as a means of final attachment during the construction of leather goods.
Combination Tanned: Leathers that are tanned using both chrome and blends of vegetable extracts along with emulsified or unrefined oils and waxes.
Corrected Grain: Leather that has been sanded to make its surface more uniform.
Emboss: To give a flat piece of leather a pattern or texture that stands out in relief through pressing with tremendous pressure.
Fat Liquored: Leather that has been nourished and conditioned with emulsified oils.
Full Grain: Leather that has its surface left completely intact, showing all natural characteristics of the hide.
Hand Glazed: Leather that has been polished with a glass rod.
Hot Stuffed: Hot stuffing is the traditional second step in the re-tanning process for leathers that are not fat liquored or wet stuffed. Unrefined fats and oils, that are solid at room temperature, are utilized to deeply nourish and condition the fibers of the hide. The fats and oils are pounded into the skins via tumbling in heated barrels, without the use of water and emulsifiers. The use of these fats and oils gives the leather a much richer feel. Hot stuffed leathers typically exhibit pull-up, good water resistance and excellent durability over time.
Mill-Dyed: Leather that has had dyes introduced during retannage. Also referred to as drum-dyed.
Pasted: Leather that has been dried by fixing it to large glass or ceramic plates. Pasted leathers have very little stretch and smooth grain character.
Pull-up: The temporary lightening of certain leathers when folded. This is caused by displacing oil and waxes.
Retan: To impregnate and condition preserved hides with tanning liquors and extracts. Retan formulations at Horween Leather Company are proprietary and developed in house.
Shell: A dense fiber structure found only in the hindquarters of equine animals.
Toggled: Leather that has been air-dried after being stretched on a metal screen and clamped into place.
Vegetable Tanned: A tanning method that employs vegetable liquors derived from tree barks. This method of tanning is very traditional and takes longer to achieve than chrome tanning.
Weight: Also referred to as thickness or substance. Leather is generally sold in ounces or millimeters, and in increments of 1/2 oz or 0.2 mm, respectively. For example, 5 – 5 1/2 oz (or 2.0 – 2.2 mm) is a typical footwear weight produced.
Wet Stuffed: Similar to Fat Liquored, Wet Stuffed leathers are nourished and conditioned with emulsified heavier oils and waxes.